Friday, March 14, 2008

Mozambican Heroes

Picture from the National Holiday (3rd of February) that celebrates the Mozambican Heroes
Nampula

After more than a half year in Mozambique I will claim that it would not be totally out of the way to categorize Mozambicans as a friendly and open people, always good for a laugh and with a pretty outspoken joy of living. Often, foreigners might find that this ‘joy of living’ sometimes overrules the joy of working a bit too much. I have actually heard many Mozambican agreeing on that as well and I have read academic papers nominating the ‘laziness’ in African culture as one of the fundamental explanations to the underdeveloped economy of the region. Now, I will not be the one to label Mozambican or Africa culture with laziness, but I must admit that it sometimes can be difficult not to get touched by the thought that there might be something true about it.

With thoughts like that in mind – a sign like this becomes appealing to an ironic sense of humor – “Viva the Mozambican heroes”: what heroes? The ones who know best how to direct donor money in to own pocket?, the ones who knows the best how to become good friends with the president and secure oneself a good life? Who and where are the heroes in Mozambique? And if they really exist isn’t it then about time that they showed up and got this country running so it at least one day could start hoping for independency from international donors’ projects, money and ‘technical assistance’?

I honestly don’t know if such Mozambican heroes exist – I don’t even have a clue if such heroes exist at all. What I do know is that, in my eyes, Mozambique is full of heroes – cause reality for the mayor part of Mozambique’s population is that they have to be heroes everyday. Not necessarily because they want to, but more to survive. They simply have no choice. So my Mozambican heroes are the maids that get up at 04h30 in the morning to be at work in the centre of Maputo at 08h00 and don’t complain, the farmers that keep on working their ‘machambas’ (small field) regardless of lack of profit and still have enough food to invite to a stranger who would drop by, and the thousands of people who practically annually gets affected by floods and droughts and persistently stays where they live cause that’s their home. They are my Mozambican heroes.

I don’t know how exactly to related this to the previously mentioned culture of laziness. I haven’t yet figured out how this contradiction can be explained. Maybe it is just a label we, from the efficient Western world, would like to put on Africans because we don’t understand how they, with the life they are living and with all the preoccupations they should have, still can seem so easygoing, still always can be good for a talk and laugh and still can maintain a positive vision of life and an apparently everlasting ‘joie de vivre’. What is sure is that a person like that in Denmark, or maybe even in Europe, would be classified as no less than a hero and would get at least a two side article in the most known magazines for not to talk about the admiration from the readers.

Mozambique gives something to think about.



Viva os heroies moçambicanos!

Viva le joie de vivre!




Beklager meget, men er for doven til at oversætte denne lange tekst – måske er jeg blevet for påvirket af den Mozambiquiske kultur…. Nok ved at være på tide at jeg vender snuden hjemad før det går helt galt med mig …. :)

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Just Vacation???


Så på min blog her den anden dag og opdagede at det jo ser ud som om jeg kun bruger min tid på at rejse og hænge ud på smukke strande. Det ville bestemt ikke ha været dårligt, men det er desværre ret langt fra virkeligheden. Rent faktisk er det meste af min tid i Mozambique gået med arbejde, enten på ambassaden eller på mit praktikprojekt. Jeg vil i den sammenhæng gerne slå fast at grunden til at jeg ikke har posted noget om arbejdsdelen af mit ophold ikke er fordi jeg synes det er mindre spændende end mine strandture – slet ikke. Det er heller ikke fordi jeg ikke kan lide at fortælle om det (bare spørg folk omkring mig). Jeg tror mere det handler om at emnet lider af en markant mangel på muligheder for at poste interessante af smukke billeder…


Had a look at my blog the other day (doesn’t happened so often), and discovered that it looks like I am doing nothing but traveling and hanging out on beautiful beaches. It would for sure have been nice, but it is quite far from the reality. To be more exact, my time in Mozambique has mostly been spend working, either at the Danish Embassy or with my internship project. The reason why I haven’t really made any posts on the matter is not because I find my work less interesting than my weekends on the beach – not at all, nor is it because I don’t like to tell about it (just ask people around me). I guess it is more because the matter suffers from an outspoken lack of opportunities for posting beautiful and interesting pictures….



Work at the Embassy
Arbejde på Ambassaden


Work at home on the project
Arbejde derhjemme på projektet


Anyway – det her var bare en post for at fortælle at, uanset hvordan det ser ud på min blog, så omfatter det at bo på kanten af paradis mere end ’arbejdet’ med at nyde de smukke omgivelser.

Anyway – this was just a post to let you know that, no matter how it looks on my blog, living on the edge of paradise for the most part implies more than just the ‘job’ of enjoying the surroundings.

Friday, February 15, 2008

Vilanculos


Et besøg fra Danmark måtte jo unægtelig betyde lidt ferie og lidt rejseri. Ane, Rikke og jeg valgte at turen skulle gå til Vilanculos ca. 10 timers kørsel nord for Maputo.

A visit from Denmark necessarily had to end up with a bit of vacation and a bit of traveling. Ane, Rikke and I chose to go to Vilanculos, 10 hour’s drive north of Maputo.


En bil blev lejet og af sted var vi – ♪♫ ”på vej’n igen, vi var li’ en tur på vej’n igen, ud og se på hvordan landet ligger hen…♪♫” og ja, hvad man kan sige til det er at landet lå smukt hen og at vejen af og til var lidt hullet…

A car was rented and on the road we where – ♪♫ “On the road again…just can't wait to get on the road again, goin' places that I've never been …” ♪♫ (the lyrics of this songs makes great sense in the Danish translation…but in this context I admit that it is not quite the same en English….). Anyway, the land was beautiful, the mood in the car was excellent and the road was…. well, with a bit of holes…




….selvom børnene da bestemt så ud til at gøre deres med at fylde hullerne med jord (i håb om at nogle af de forbi kørende vil betale for tjenesten)

…even though the kids did their job on filling out the holes with soil ( with the hope that some of the passing cars might drop a coin or two for the favour)




Turen var lang, men bestemt det værd. Ikke at Vilanculos i sig selv er så forfærdelig spændende. Det er de øerne udfor kysten til gengæld, så det er bare op i en båd og af sted…

The trip was long but it was definitely worth it. Not that Vilanculos is especially interesting, what is interesting are the islands near the coast, so we jumped in a boat and off we went…



Og der var snorkling og badning...
And there were snorkling and swimming...



Og der var lækker frokost på stranden…
And there were delicious lunch on the beach…



Og der var afslapning i skyggen…
And there were relaxation in the shadows…




Og der var dykning…
And there were diving…



---


Og det var dejligt...
And it was lovely…


---


....så dejligt at selv ikke engang bilen ville hjem… den gjorde hvad den kunne for at blive og havde allieret sig med en lille ven….en meget lille ven men ikke desto mindre betydelig nok til at forstyrre vores hjemtur.

...so lovely that even the car didnt want to go home…and it did what it could to get stay longer, like allying itself with this little friend… this very little friend that nevertheless managed to disrupt our trip home.



Heldigvis var hjælpen nær...
Fortunately help was near....




vi fik lappet dækket og vi var…
we got the tire fixed and could go…..


♪♫ på vej’n igen, vi var li’ en tur på vej’n igen….
♪♫ On the road again…



♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫
♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫
♪♫♪♫

♪♫

Thursday, February 07, 2008

Waiting for the wind


Fishermen waiting for the wind in Nacala,
waiting for the wind to blow them to the fish,
blow them to their mean of livelihood,
blow them to a better life
blow them forward,blow them away,
just to blow them somewhere,
anywhere...

Like Mozambique is blowing with the wind of the donors

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Just so you know…/ Bare så I ved det...

 



Translation in English:
For meals at the terrace. The management is not responsible for insects that may fall into the food.
The management

Oversættelse til dansk:
For måltider på terrassen. Ledelsen kan ikke ansvarliggøres for insekter, der falder ned i maden.
Ledelsen

Saturday afternoon at Costa do Sol

Usual weekend activities in my Mozambican life….eat, drink, talk, relax. Last Saturday with visit from Denmark.

Normale weekend aktiviteter i mit mozambiquiske liv….spise, drikke, snakke og slappe af. Sidste lørdag med besøg fra Danmark.


Monday, January 07, 2008

Kruger National Park


The Christmas of 2007 was definitely the ‘wildest’ Christmas I ever celebrated. Here are some pictures of those I spend the day with…


Julen 2007 var helt sikkert den 'vildeste' jul, jeg nogen sinde har haft. Her er nogle billeder af nogle af de væsner, jeg tilbragte højtiden med....








Friday, January 04, 2008

Ilha de Moçambique

Vil man opleve et andet Mozambique end det de endeløse paradisiske strande kan byde på, er Ilha de Moçambique et must. Ikke alene var koraløen det ældste koloni i Østafrika og erklæret UNESCO kulturarv, det er også et på samme tid underligt, smukt og magisk sted. Lille og tæt bebygget med huse i kolonialstil samt hytter af strå. Historisk set har øen dannet den fysiske ramme for muslimsk handel, portugisisk søfart til Indien, Mozambiques første hovedstad samt de første europæiske krige på afrikansk territorium. Rimelig godt klaret for en ø der ikke er større end 2.5 km i længden og 600m i bredden. I dag minder øen mere om en tætbefolket (ca 7000 indbyggere) spøgelsesby, hvor de ellers så fine huse ligger mere eller mindre i ruiner og nu blot er et minde om en forsvunden storhedstid. Der hviler en helt særlig atmosfære over øen som jeg ikke har oplevet noget andet sted i verden og som jeg heller ikke kan beskrive med ord. Jeg kan kun foreslå at besøge den og selv opleve det.

If you want experience another Mozambique than the one of the endless paradise beaches, a visit to Ilha de Moçambique is a must. Not only is the coral island the oldest European settlement in east Africa and a declared UNESCO world heritage site it is also a weird, beautiful and magical place. Small and densely built-on with colonial style houses and huts made of straw. Historically, the island has been the centre of Muslim trade, Portuguese seaway to India, the first capital of Mozambique as well as the first European wars on the African continent. Pretty well done for an island that is no bigger than 2.5 km long and 600m wide! Today the island is like a densely populated (approximately 7000 inhabitants) ghost town, where the before so beautiful houses are in ruins as a quiet memory of the lost heydays. There is a special atmosphere in the island which I have not experienced anywhere else in the world and which I cannot describe with words. I can only propose that you go there and experience it yourself.


Fishermen outside the old fortress
Fiskere foran det gamle fort


While the secondary school is being renovated, the fotress is being used as a school
Mens byens skole er under renovation, bliver fortet brugt som skole







The children were a little bit afraid of giving me the hand.... for sure the event of the day for them!
Børnene var nærmest bange for at give mig hånden, jeg leverede bestemt dagens underholdning


Nice lunch with a nice view
Dejlig frokost med dejlig udsigt

The old hospital
Det gamle hospital


Former governor's house
Den tidligere guvernørbolig